Charleston,
Charleston,
Made in Carolina.
(pre-ramble)
Time to start doing research on Charleston? This is a city that I’ve been wanting to visit for awhile. It’s not that far from Atlanta. And I've been wanting to go for the food and the history.
Does Texas have a reason to be scared? Has the gargantuan lone star state been dethroned by the vaguely triangle-shaped state as THE place to go to for barbeque?
The Lowcountry: the southern region of South Carolina.
No frills. Just food.
Gullah cuisine- fresh seafood, rice, local vegetables and fruits, African imports like yams, sesame or benne seeds, okra, peanuts, and sorghum
People who come here are those who know that this is good food. Food served with some history (or is it the other way around? History served with some food?)
As I'm looking through these restaurants, I’ve got such a big smile. These people know good food- cooking and eating it. No skimping on flavor. No room for fakes.
In the car and I'm really fucking tired.
Call it lack of sleep.
I just can’t wait to pull up to Rodney Scott’s and eat that pork sandwich. If it isn’t the best thing, at least I’ll know it was made with lots of love and labor.
Rodney Scott's BBQ.
“Rodney Scott has a dream. And that dream is to spread barbecue and a whole lot of love, fun and good vibes around the world. Yes, I said the world.” - Rodney Scott
“Rodney Scott is a man sought after all over the world for some of the finest whole-hog barbecue there is. Rodney and his family have been doing it like this and only this for forty-three years. Burn barrel, fresh coals, slow, slow, slow cooked all night in the pit. There are no shortcuts. This ain’t a craft, This is a calling.” - Anthony Bourdain
Rodney Scott’s did not disappoint. Potato salad was a little too sour for my taste, but the brisket was melt in your mouth as brisket always should be, and the pulled pork sandwich was amazing. Moist and flavorful, and I usually don’t eat pulled pork. Mac n cheese was really good, and I usually don’t like baked mac n cheese.
Banana pudding was just alright, but I'm kind of (very) ashamed to say that Magnolia Bakery still has the best banana pudding I've ever had (better than what I’ve had so far in the south).
My one gripe about this place is that it already feels a bit commercialized in appearance and branding, but I guess that’s inevitable, right?
so far, so good. (I spoke too soon)
Fava beans and a nice chianti.
I think the restaurants in Charleston do a fantastic job of conveying the richness of the city's history.
Take, for instance, Hannibal's Kitchen.
Fried chicken gizzards? A thick slice of cornbread (can't remember if it was sweet or savory)?
Crab rice? It's like I'm eating at someone's home, not a restaurant.
The Southern Charm of Charleston.
(Gone with the Wind-esque)
However. For a city with so much black history and roots, you’d think there’d be an ample black population. but no, it is a 78% white city.
what the hell is going on here?
It gives contemporary southern belle. It’s just so… white? Unnervingly.
There was a family photoshoot and a banquet being set up at a plantation (the plantation had a petting zoo?).
Charleston City Market
mix of handmade and chintzy souvenirs sold in a former food market dating back to the 1800s. nice.
Fort Sumter
"mom, take a picture of my outfit at fort sumter"
Old Slave Mart Museum
must visit!
Rainbow Row
eh. i mean, it's just houses with color on them. it's not like you can go inside or anything. i prefer the Painted Ladies in san francisco.
Husk.
a fantastic final dinner. both this and Rodney Scott's proved to be the standouts of this trip. the two restaurants that I had been waiting to try for literal YEARS- and it really was worth the wait.
dessert was WOW. not too sweet, a lot going on but in a good way- sweet and dense and spicy and soft al at once. I asked the waiter about the chile tahini and why that was chosen, he said chile because it's a riff on the Mexican hot chocolate and that part I understood but the tahini part I was confused about, and he said because the dessert was gluten free and there were a lot of seed based things in the dessert so the tahini was used to remind you of that. absolutely brilliant. this is what I go to restaurants for. just such genius and creativity.
Last Course: Mississippi Mud Pie
Duke's Chocolate Cake, Methodical Coffee Ice Cream, Chile Tahini Fudge Sauce, Benne Brittle, Toasted Marshmallow.
Current Chef at Husk: Raymond England. carry on, my wayward son.
this is leadership done right. beyond food, I believe that the sign that the founder of any institution has done a good job is when the institution can carry on without them and still preserve the original intent and mission. Chef England may not be Sean Brock, but it seems to me that he's doing a pretty damn good job of treating Husk like Brock did and envisioned.
A Little History
not too much though. I'm not getting paid to do this.
words really can't describe how everything tasted. just click the pictures for their names.
and as for how everything tasted? incredible.
by day 4, I'd seen too many Sperry's and pastel shirts and love shack fancy-type dresses with sandals and boots. couldn't wait to leave this unnerving place. you can tell how excited I was to come, but I just left so disillusioned.
I might have to give it another chance and see how (if) the city owns up to its history.