ahhh... the city of the faux french, the canadian dollar, the fries with gravy...
montreal.
(man, do i have to leave already?)
pre-ramble.
JOE BEEF JOE BEEF JOE BEEF
POUTINE POUTINE POUTINE
(But more so JOE BEEF)
oh my god I’m gonna cry just by looking at this menu- it’s so classical and it’s so french but it’s so Canadian and it just works so well
7/17 JUST BOOKED MY RESERVATION FOR JOE BEEF OH MY GOD
Okay so i really cannot wait for this trip, I’m so so excited. I can’t wait to immerse myself in its culture and its people and its food.
“Food is, however, a major, major reason to come here”
Okay but i must also go to Au Pied du Cochon. Prices really don’t look bad.
“This is a dying art: marinated and boiled pork knuckle, served with boiled potatoes”
The smoked meat at Schwartz's Deli.
Homework: Martin Picard (where did I first see his name? Probably in the munchies book?)
--> Au Pied de Cochon - restauranteur of
“...they market their own maple syrup. After years of research and development, other products will emerge, such as maple condensed milk and maple dulce de leche.” - oh my god you canNOT do that to me BAHH
(on poutine): “...quintesssential drinking food- gluttonous, crispy-soggy-salty, booze-absorbing masterpiece”
8/5 Okay, so I leave like in a week and a day and there’s still some shit i have to get done. I have not done as much research as I told myself I’d do and I need to figure out the currency situation
8/11 Going tomorrow ! Is Montreal a city that isn’t yet overrun with tourists? Will i be visiting it before that economic peak?
day 1
"now I feel like i’m not gonna eat anything except for fruits and vegetables tomorrow. That’s definitely me lying to myself."
Just got back from joe beef and I am so goddamn full. Oh my god. I am very fucking full. Lobster spaghetti reminded me of that scene in ratatouille where fireworks are going off in remy’s head when he’s combining different foods. Like every bite was so rich and luxurious and buttery (so very French) and then it turned like light and citrusy and zesty? It was so rich and it had like a sequence of flavors occurring. Like i have rarely had that happen where you have a dish kinda change flavors towards the end of the time that it’s in your mouth. Idk man it was so good Yeah, i really did order $70 spaghetti lobster and I will not be doing that ever again. Quite literally worth it but i am so fucking full. That dish easily could’ve been for two people. That marjolaine did not disappoint. It was not what I was expecting- I was expecting a classic chocolate praline whatever the fuck one, but instead it was pistachio, vanilla buttercream, strawberry- was that intentional, to be some kind of neapolitan? Playful riff. Thank god it was light. Those flavors WORKED together. They mixed the beef tartare right in front of you and then mixed the stuff and put it on your plate. I realized i don’t like endives, but I still love some good beef tartare. Probably the only meal I’ve had that was super expensive that was actually worth all of that in terms of fullness. The last time i had a meal with that bill i was not full. But oh my god i was so stuffed. See, this restaurant is a big reason why i wanted to come to montreal. A city where classical dining reigns supreme and is always in style. It’s everywhere. It’s pervasive. I went into that restaurant so fucking hungry, and now I feel like i’m not gonna eat anything except for fruits and vegetables tomorrow. That’s definitely me lying to myself. Everyone is very nice here. I feel at home and so comfortable speaking French, is that weird? Incredibly diverse. A melange of French and American cultures. Slowed-down life, more appreciative (?), but there’s something quintessentially European that isn’t here. Farmer’s market was mad cheap. Why can’t farmer’s markets be so good in Chicago or Atlanta that they become tourist destinations? It’s a city that encourages you to indulge. Every old town has the same blueprint, I swear. Someone playing a cover of a pop song on an instrument on the road (this time it was Blinding Lights with some obscure instrument), tourist shops with things made from china, art galleries, tourist restaurants, a ben and jerry’s, artisan craft stores. Maybe a ferris wheel. And as soon as you go outside of the tourist area, it’s quiet and only locals are there.
day 2
I guess i’m not much of a bagel person, I guess the bagels are supposed to be eaten whole? Lemme do some research into this. Okay, so I guess they are. I think Americans just like making everything into a sandwich and making bread crispy and slathered with butter. The hummus at Sumac is definitely the smoothest I have had since Shaya. That falafel was so good too, so crispy and flavorful. Falafel done right. God, I need to wake up early tomorrow for the church, Olive et Gormando, and Crew Collective & Cafe. Maybe I’ll bring my laptop there. Being here really does just make me smile. People are so friendly here. But why do things open so late? Like the earliest i’ve seen something being open is 8am. Not even 6am for a patisserie ? PFK that’s so fucking funny. Poulet frit de Kentucky. They really love smoked meat in this town. I gotta get it at least once. But I can’t get just a bite of it, huh.
"poulet frit de Kentucky"
day 3
"Too many fucking carbs today. Fuck."
Morning: breakfast/brunch at olive et gourmand, chez potier, church, then cowork at crew Edit: imma do potier and crew tomorrow- I’ll just bring my book and read at crew. Edit edit: did not end up going to potier and crew Olive et gourmand was such a lovely space- staring out the window listening to for what it’s worth by Buffalo Springfield, listening to the background chatter and coffee machines going GO TO Sachère Desserts Wilensky’s light lunch ? Boulangerie Cheskie ? Edit: Hella long line outside Schwartz’s at 2pm on a thursday. Sheesh Edit: no, will not be going to sachere desserts today. Too many fucking carbs today. Fuck. Wilensky’s did not disappoint. Light lunch indeed- i started off this lunch break being so goddamn hungry and then it felt like my stomach was gonna burst two and a half hours later. I don’t think i’ll be eating for the rest of the day. Man there is so much good food everywhere you turn. And it’s all so diverse. Evening: museum of contemporary art, dinner could be express, Ma Poule Mouillée, schwartz’s deli Edit: again, i will not be eating for the remainder of the day. I am gonna go to mount royal and burn off all of the stuff i ate today arghhhhhh It’s not like a city that forbids you from eating healthy- you can choose to eat “clean” if you want, but who’s gonna do that in this city when things like poutine exist? Fat and butter? Yes, please.
day 4
"Grease? Yes, please."
Thinking to go back to jean talon to get some orenthal james, then to plaza saint hubert and check that out Bro i really need to eat vegetables today Edit: And eat I did- went to L’Express- absolutely amazing meal. Green salad was good (a little heavy on the dressing though) and tiiramisu macaron was crazy. Dinner at au pied de cochon!!! Duck tartare was very good, didn’t taste that distinguishable from beef tartare but maybe it’s bc it’s prepared the same way Halibut was very flaky and buttery, there were also wild mushrooms served with it and I usually don’t like wild mushrooms but they provided an earthy flavor which was a nice contrast to the creme anglaise in the dish Dessert was amazing, idk what that red stuff was prolly like strawberry puree but I just started eating that and it was really good And the house made maple dulce the leche inside was amazing Walking to the poutine place and it’s dark and there’s crickets chirping and I hear jazz in the background Grease? Yes, please. Eating heartily is a choice here- and it’s an easy one to make.
day 5
Déjeuner
Dîner
Souper
after
I really did fall in love with this city. The North American-French hybrid, the warmth and friendless of the people there, the laid-back attitude.